Top 10 Traditional Assamese Jewellery Pieces and Their Stories

Assamese traditional jewellery—renowned for its intricate motifs, vibrant history, and deep symbolism—intertwines the region’s art, nature, and folklore. Here are the top 10 Assamese jewellery pieces, each rich with unique cultural stories and significance:

1. Jonbiri

Shape: Crescent Moon
Story: Jonbiri (or Junbiri) is inspired by the crescent moon and symbolizes feminine grace, completeness, and the nurturing force in Assamese culture. Traditionally handcrafted in gold or silver, this striking pendant is a signature of Assamese bridal attire and is a symbol of prosperity and emotional well-being.

2. Dholbiri

Shape: Drum (Dhol)
Story: Modeled after the Assamese drum, Dholbiri captures the rhythm and spirit of folk celebrations. Its detailed design immortalizes Assam’s musical heritage, reminding wearers of joy and festivity, especially during Bihu and other major ceremonies.

3. Lokaparo

Motif: Pair of Pigeons
Story: Lokaparo consists of pendants or earrings featuring two pigeons, representing peace, harmony, and love. Initially worn by nobility and dignitaries, Lokaparo ornaments symbolize tranquillity and are a cherished part of Assamese bridal jewelry.

4. Gamkharu

Type: Broad, Floral Bangle
Story: The robust Gamkharu was once reserved for Ahom royals and is now popular among Assamese brides and during Bihu. Often engraved with floral designs, it represents strength, prosperity, and resilience, making it a protective and auspicious piece for women.

5. Doogdoogi

Shape: Heart
Story: With its heart-shaped locket, Doogdoogi is an ancient neck ornament. It is not only admired for its aesthetics but also believed to foster love and emotional bonds in the family, making it a sentimental heirloom.

6. Thuriya

Type: Floral/Spiral Earrings
Story: Characterized by floral or spiral designs, Thuriya is worn during festivals and important ceremonies. These gold or silver earrings symbolize continuity, eternity, and the enduring nature of tradition. Their unique shape ensures security on the ear while glittering amid dance and celebrations.

7. Kerumoni/Keru

Type: Earring/Pendant
Story: Traditionally a golden ear ornament with a distinctive hollow center, Kerumoni designs encapsulate both simplicity and elegance. Originally used only in earrings, their motifs now decorate pendants as well, reflecting the adaptability of Assamese artisanship.

8. Senpati

Type: Gold Necklace
Story: Senpati is a symbol of Assamese heritage, featuring nature-inspired motifs such as leaves and flowers. Commonly worn by brides, this necklace signifies prosperity and tradition, and its intricate crafting showcases the region’s goldsmithing expertise.

9. Magardana

Type: Ring/Ornament
Story: Known for intricate, usually floral engravings, Magardana rings and ornaments are worn during weddings and festivals. They symbolize prosperity and are often passed down through generations, connecting families to their ancestral roots.

10. Galpata / Golpota

Type: Choker/Necklace
Story: Galpata is a choker-style necklace engraved with floral designs, often enhanced with vibrant enameling (meenakari). It celebrates feminine beauty and is an essential part of a bride’s wedding jewelry set, representing the unity of tradition and festivity.

Honorable Mentions

• Pepa: Inspired by the hornpipe folk instrument, Pepa jewelry celebrates Assamese musical heritage.

• Uka-Keru: Simple, everyday earrings symbolizing grace and practical beauty.

• Dhansiri: Necklace named after an Assamese river, symbolizing abundance.

• Muthi Kharu: Sturdy bangle that signifies strength and is widely used in both weddings and festivals.